They say all roads lead to Rome, and this was certainly the case during the 23rd edition of Alta Roma Alta Moda, the Italian Haute Couture fashion week presented in the eternal city from the 6th to the 10th of July. Rome, with its dolce vita vibe, is the perfect backdrop for this renowned fashion event. This season showcased some of the most established Italian Haute Couturiers and assorted international names, among them the exclusive Jean Paul Gaultier show.
Although Alta Roma Fashion Week attempts to brand itself as a cradle of creativity and a convergence of historic brands and emerging talents, I think many designers could have been more daring. Instead, there was a bit of traditionalism that made Alta Roma collections at times predictable and repetitive. Nonetheless a few designers challenged the ordinary and offered outstanding collections.
Alta Roma kicked off in the official venue S. Spirito in Sassia with Polish fashion designer Natasha Pavluchenko and her Haute Couture AW14 collection “Senses”. Starting with white, through delicate cream colours, powder pink, light blue, and black, Natasha displayed bold combination of wool and silk, leather and laces. Geometricism, oversized shapes, and frills enhanced the designer intention of representing opposite traits of her women: strength and joy, weakness and sorrow.
Andrés Caballero honoring his country of origin, Mexico created a collection that takes inspiration from a cardboard doll named Lupita, a traditional Mexican toy. This figure is represented as a young lady in colored swimsuit decorated with hand-painted floral patterns, white socks and black shoes. In his SS14 collection, San Andrès Milano evokes a relaxed allure, bright and above all joyful, mixing respectability and impertinence; the silhouette becomes soft with overlapping blocks of colors and materials.
The most innovative and creative shows not to be missed were those presented by the Ethical Fashion Initiative. The International Trade Center in collaboration with Alta Roma promoted the production of luxury fashion items created through a partnership between fashion brands and micro enterprises run by Africana and Haitian women. Among these designers, the very talented Stella Jean unveiled a SS14 collection infused with an elegance that hinted at the Old Continent, concealing itself behind bursts of color reflecting newer cultures that challenge the old to meet and converse on equal footing.
Christie Brown created a SS14 collection that found inspiration in the 1960’s mod era speaking to the subdued simplicity and subtle androgyny of its timeless garments, coupled with the use of tribal infused fabrics handcrafted by local artisans and mixed with lush silks chiffons, linens, silk organzas and satin crepes.
Kiki Clothing, another young fashion designer to watch, with her use of Ankara or Wax printed fabrics, and some gold, designed a SS14 collection, where her inspirations were colour and the richness of North Africa.
The designer duo Portenier Roth for their SS14 “Croisière 14” collection used bold coloured fabrics (coloured by hand at their own production facility) and placed prints, which are combined with Lurex enhanced textiles from Burkina Faso. The designers played with matt and shining finishes, coarse and smooth surface structures. The collection looks like a remake of “Dirty Dancing” directed by David Lynch, starring Audrey Hepburn.
Despite the heat, frequent thunderstorms, a general lack of organization, the lateness of the shows, and the first row seats reserved for uptown old ladies, I quite liked the experience and enjoyed the few designers that flaunted impressive collections. Arrivederci Roma!
