It’s always nice to be back home in Italy for Fashion Week. Milan Fashion Week is one of the few occasions in which Milan become more international, interesting and fun. So from the 19th of February we participated in the fashion parade where Milan turned out to showcase new and established designers. AW14 collections were fresh, creative and celebrated an Italian style that has been missed.
Once upon a time in Sicily there was the Dolce & Gabbana army. An enchanted forest set the stage for a AW14 show that narrated a fairytale where female knights along with Little Red Riding Hood were featured protagonists. Foxes, squirrels, and owls were appliquéd onto lacy dresses and coats with big fur hoods. Bejewelled and glittering snoods paired with high knee boots captured the Medieval look perfectly.
The Sicilian-born designer Fausto Puglisi is one of the emerging talents to keep an eye on. Harlequin checks and bejewelled details typified the AW14 collection. Exuberant colors and unusual shapes gave life to joyful and whimsical looks.
The AW14 Gucci show revived the glamour and debauchery of the 60s. Big fur coats, high-waisted dresses, ruffled shirts, leather inserts, sparkling crystals and high boots made each piece elegant and modern. The color palette included pastels such as light blue, pink and yellow and also darker hues of burgundy, camel and musk.
Jeremy Scott’s debut for Moschino was genius and he gave us a collection that will be remembered. The AW14 collection is a celebration of the best tongue and cheek personality of the brand. It also managed to highlight the junkie pop culture we live in. Do you want fast fashion? Here it is served. McDonald’s, Hershey and SpongeBob mixed with Chanel references and vintage Moschino accessories, will make us nostalgic of the energy of the 90s.
Rocco Barocco’s AW14 collection is a slight departure from some of the other shows. Starting with relaxed trousers, tweed jackets, checks and stripes dresses in black and white, certain pieces have a masculine but sophisticated touch. The collection then evolved in more feminine and sexy silhouettes where vibrant monochromatic looks, metallic jacquards suits and dresses with gold embellishments made an impression.
The first time I saw Stella Jean was last summer during AltaRoma AltaModa. Not only has this young designer grown, but she has established an unique and recognizable aesthetic thanks to her strong prints and multicultural influences. Kimono dresses paired with shirts underneath, dirndl skirts combined with jackets all in bold patterns and African prints are all signature pieces of the AW14 collection.