AltaRoma AltaModa kicked off on the 25th of January in Rome and for three days Complesso Monumentale di Santo Spirito in Sassia became the official venue to host the AW14-15 collections of up-and-coming designers as well as the Haute Couture SS14 collections of historical fashion houses. The eternal city was once again a great backdrop to display classicism and innovation on the runway.
The Sardinian duo Quattromani presented an AW14 collection that focused on precise, tailored cuts and innovative matter-like juxtapositions. The silhouettes, severe and dry, borrows ideas from stable architectural shapes. Cady dresses, vinylic-textured pants, bustier tops and mini-bombers were some of the highlights. The colour palette explored tones of mélange grey, sage green and sheer black, interrupted by streaks of white, geranium and avocado yellow.
The Greta Boldini AW14 collection takes inspiration from Luchino Visconti’s film Fall of the Gods, set in the 40’s and starring Charlotte Rampling, who is the muse of the brand. The reference to this time is visible in the silhouettes: pleated chemisiers and draped, wrap-around dresses hide deliberately flirty side slits. The mid length, by now the hallmark feature of the label, coulottes paired beautifully with heavy outerwear and furs, merge to create provocative body couture. Heavy, masculine wool tweeds, flannels, sheepskin, sable satin and silk georgette are among the textiles chosen to recall the nostalgia and elegance of the period.
The Comeforbreakfast AW14 collection is dominated by a young, versatile, metropolitan style. Refined though comfortable, it features a mix of sporty basics and casual-chic. Sheer fabrics, silk and metallic items are combined together to accentuate the avant garde and minimalistic concept of the label. The collection stands for an entirely new Made in Italy concept where the perfect fit is found thanks to a delicate balance between fabrics, shapes and construction details.
The SS14 Sarli Haute Couture collection is characterised by fresh and contemporary designs and simple-clean lines that create dreamy evening wear. Luminous palette inspired by the colors of Claude Monet’s paintings make each garment crisp, candid and delicate. Elegance meets sensuality thanks to precious lightweight fabrics and 3D embroidery.
Mireille Dagher SS14 Haute Couture collection titled “Deep into the Blue” interprets the mystery of the sea with stunning mermaid cuts designed to highlight the female silhouette with precision and delicacy. Silk and lace and other precious fabrics glide over the skin like waves creating an ethereal and charming elegance. Bright and cheerful colors dominate this collection with blue, beige; rosy beige and pistachio. The marine theme is also present in the selection of accessories such as chains of old ships, and embroidery in the form of algae and shells.
The Raffaella Frasca Haute Couture SS14 collection is a mix of glamorous rock appeal. The dresses with flared skirts are a homage to the 50’s and are enriched by embroidery of jais and by the asymmetries in necklines and hems. Leather, tulle, silk and organza embellished with details such as feathers, embroidery and “rose gold” stone make this collection strong and sexy. The color palette varies from pure white to shades of gray up to the deepest black, passing through the powder beige in an essential chromatic harmony.
